When the Festival Comes to Town

The festival was just about the biggest thing that’s ever happened in town in the year I’ve lived here.

I rode the teacups and did bumper cars.

Watched the horse races and screamed just about every time their guns went off.

Saw my friend’s little sister perform in our ‘Idol’ competition.

Jammed to some rock infused Moroccan music.

Drank tea in a big white tent.

Ate cotton candy.

Stayed out till 11:30 p.m. (2:00 a.m. American equivalent)

And had myself a jolly good time.

I wish every day was a festival day in town.
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Things I Miss (And Will Miss)

Things I miss…

Dave’s Killer Bread, taco trucks, saag paneer, Mt. Rainier, Puget Sound, the three lined tunnel into Steilacoom, 6th Ave in Tacoma, wearing dresses and skirts everyday, going out, running errands with my Mom, Saturday morning runs and breakfast with my Dad at Ruston Way, freedom of dress and expression, discovering new restaurants, being anonymous, mild PNW climate, being able to talk to my family whenever I want, knowing exactly what’s expected of me at work, learning in the classroom, Evergreen trees, the library, sitting in coffee shops, cheering Gonzaga basketball on, whiskey sours, karaoke, pumpkin patches, holidays, washing machines, hiking, dancing in public, not feeling like my life is a house of cards, going to Mariner’s games, IPA’s, not running the risk of getting stranded in places, being understood, the newspaper, etc.

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Latifa, who’s cous cous I eat every Friday and who’s family I love, and I on our way up to visit a friend of hers up the mountain.

Things I will miss…

Cous cous Friday’s, napping after said cous cous has been eaten, buying my fruits and vegetables at souk, driving through my portion of the Middle Atlas Mountains, biking through the olive groves, the red poppies in the Springtime, the relationships I’ve built with people I otherwise might never had connected with had I not learned their language, Moroccan generosity, drinking tea while sitting on colorful shag carpets, Amazigh pride, listening to “Inas Inas,” used clothes souk in Beni Mellal, loubia, harcha, intensity of the colors here, puppy and kitten season, the ‘highs,’ the people that make the hard stuff worth it, shopping at the hanut, when the mountains in the distance are snow capped or fogged over, sleeping under the stars, the Peace Corps phone plan and volunteers who understand how hard or wonderful it can be, feeling special, not having to pay off my student loans yet, sunsets, Terboula, riding in the transits, the red dirt, being able to set my own schedule for work, going for walks, my neighbor kids, exploring, etc.

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“The things that we love tell us what we are.” — Thomas Aquinas

Baking chocolate chip cookies, walk to the korba, picnic and swimming at Bin El Ouidane with PCV’s, zwin grainy like bread for breakfast, bedroom and toes, the garden, mountains as seen from the lycee, and last class at the dakhaliya.

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My Blinders are Turned Off

Sometimes it’s unfathomable to me how so much ugliness can exist in the midst of so much beauty.

By most accounts, yesterday was a good day.

A festival has come to town, complete with horses, big white tents, costumed drummers in a throwback to Amazigh folklore, cotton candy, and bumper cars. It’s the biggest thing that’s ever happened in town in the year I’ve lived here.

After eating lunch with my assistant mudir’s family, I walked to the festival with his wife and her sisters. I later sat and had tea with some women inside one of the tents. Still afterwards, I hung out with some of my kids, took photos, and reveled in saying ‘hello’ to as many people as I knew.

Yesterday I felt like I was a part of the community, something every Peace Corps volunteer longs to feel in site.

But in the midst of all that, I deflected a boy who tried to touch me inappropriately. I shamed some men who harassed me in French.

I watched in horror as a group of small boys beat up another boy and pushed him to the ground bawling. Even worse, I was disgusted by the non-involvement of several adults standing nearby watching this all happen. I felt helpless as I tried to console this boy and assist him. Helpless as I yelled at the others in Darija and English, and watched as they laughed at me. Helpless and angry because I didn’t have the words or know-how to ward them off or make them feel ashamed. I was angry at myself for not doing more.

The final straw came later as I went to teach my second to last class at the dakhaliya. One of the student’s there, a boy who I’ve recognized before, spoke to me in a mocking tone. The kind of incident I would normally brush off or ignore, but in light of everything that happened I snapped at him. Yelled at him in English and then got him in trouble by the night supervisor.

***

My friend Sasa hit the nail on the head when she explained to me how it’s possible to feel so many emotions in one day while in the Peace Corps, moments of extreme happiness and sadness. As I told her, I don’t recall ever feeling this ‘up and down’ before in America.

Sasa made light of the fact that in the Peace Corps, we get used to hardship. Sad as it is, we get used to people harassing us, using us, or telling us that every single way we have for doing things is wrong. So we hold on to those small moments of great pleasure. Like when all the little girls in your neighborhood run up to talk to you whenever they see you, or when your fruit man throws in a few oranges for free. We remind ourselves that the small moments, when combined, make it all worth it. They combine to create something wonderful.

Sometimes however, even the smallest bad things, like the boy who mocked me at the lycee, sometimes those things break us. They break us apart because we’re constantly on egg shells, trying to figure out how to make this all work. We’re consistently aware that it could all come falling down in one fell swoop. We’re hoping that it doesn’t.

***

A few weeks ago while on a hike, I got a text message from one of my favorite girls telling me that she would no longer be able to study at the lycee. She had recently been involved in an unfortunate incident, involving a boy she had been ‘dating’ who recorded them kissing on his phone and then posted it on YouTube.

An incident like this in the States would cause some alarm, but no one would question a girl’s right to education.

An incident like this in Morocco is completely damaging.

She is made to believe that she has brought shame upon her family. Made to believe that she’s promiscuous, and moreover that the act of kissing is wrong. Her classmates shun and gossip about her relentlessly. And ordinarily, the boy in this situation would get off unscathed. Perhaps revered by his peers for doing something so brazen.

Fortunately, this situation ended better for my girl then I imagine it would for most rural area girls in Morocco. She received unfounded support from the school administration and the gendarmes. The boy was arrested and she is now back in school.

But for a good couple of days, I was convinced that her life as she knew it was over. Finality in Morocco has a way of being, well, final. This was another incident in which, I couldn’t believe that ‘shit like this still happens in the world.’ That in the midst of so much beauty, so much ugliness lies.

***

Having made it one year as a Peace Corps volunteer in Morocco means a lot of great things. It means I know the shortcuts, literal and figurative, in town. It means I’ve developed relationships that I’ll cherish for the rest of my life. It means that in spite of all the frustration I have gotten to engage in some meaningful work. It means that my Darija, while not necessarily great, is expanded with each new phrase or word that I learn.

But it also means that my blinders are turned off. I pick up on negativity more easily. My eyes and my ears are open. Or if you want to get real hippie, I’m one with the elements.

Ignorance is bliss, as the time tested adage says. Perhaps if I were more ignorant of my surroundings, I’d be happier. But I also wouldn’t be experiencing any realness. Nothing to make me cherish those small moments or continue to view life in technicolor.

The only thing I can do, is continue to ‘beat on,’ experience the good with the bad, and then write about it all afterwards.

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